Surfing has one of the steepest learning curves of any sport. You are dealing with a moving playing field, balancing on a slippery plank, and trying to read the ocean's mind.
The Paddle Is Everything
Most beginners fail because they don't paddle hard enough. You have to match the speed of the wave. Keep your head down, dig deep, and take two extra paddles even after you feel the wave pick you up.
The Pop-Up
Don't use your knees. It's a hard habit to break. Practice your pop-up on the living room floor until it's one fluid motion from your chest to your feet. A good traction pad on the tail will help your back foot find its place without looking.
The Payoff
When it finally clicks—when the noise of the whitewater drops away and you are gliding silently across the face of the wave—you'll understand why people build their entire lives around this sport. Soon enough, you'll be looking for a surfboard wall rack for your growing quiver.